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C'est la Z

Rome in 3 days

Time for a trip report.

Been in Bologna for a few days now but before that, we started in Rome. Now, I was correctly informed that Italy in August isn't the smartest move - it's hot - 97 degrees out as I'm writing this post. Not pleasant outside. Still, Rome was pretty awesome even if I did fade in the afternoons.

Why Italy? It was Natan's choice. Having graduated right before Covid, Natan hasn't had a chance for a real vacation for years. We thought we'd do a family thing. He's a big opera fan and there's a Rossini festival in Pesaro Italy starting on August 10th so that was the target. A few days in Rome, a few in Bologna, down to Pesaro for three days and the festival, then back to Rome then home.

As usual we did a lot of walking. All around Rome.

Here are some of the places and things we visited.

  • Trajan and Titus's Baths
  • Papal basilica if Saint Mary Major
  • Moses Fountain
  • The Colloseum / Forum / Paletine Hill
  • The Great Synagogue
  • Castel Saint Angelo
  • Saint Andre Della Valle
  • The Palazzo Farnese
  • Fountain of the Four Rivers
  • Saint Agnese in Agone
  • Largo de torre argentina (where they went all stabby on Julius Caesar)
  • The Pantheon
  • Capuchin Crypt and Museum
  • Galleria Borghese
  • Spanish Steps
  • The Trevi Fountain

Here are some highlights:

Maybe the best bang for the buck was Castel Saint Angelo. It's a little off the main tourist path so it wasn't that crowded but it was pretty amazing. Originally built by Hadrian for his mausoleum it was later used as Papal residences as well as for a prison and a fortress. Inside it's got it's own architecture and artifacts and there are also museum sections. The result is you get ancient roman history and art, Catholic history and art, military stuff, and more. All with some great views.

We easily spent a morning there.

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Castel Saint Angelo
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A trap door
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Some nice views
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Saint Michael at the top

We only ended up going to Castel Saint Angelo due to Natan. As I mentioned, he's really into opera. Last year we saw Tosca, an opera by Puccini. Tosca is an opera in three acts and each act is at a real location in Rome. The third act takes place at Castel Saint Angelo where Tosca flings herself off the parapet. Act 2 takes place at the Palazzo Farnese, now the French Embassy and the first at Saint Andre Della Valle, a nearby church.

The other unexpected highlight was the Villa Bourghese.

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The Villa Bourghese

Great collection of artwork in an amazing space.

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One of the rooms

A "Last Supper" that we prefer due to the cute doggie:

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The Last Supper

A cute doggie sculpture:

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Cute

Even the ceilings.

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Ceilings

Also highly recommended.

Of course, in our wanderings we saw so much more:

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Stabby stabby
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Moses

I won't bore you with more pictures but the Jewish Museum and Synagogue were also really interesting. Learned about the Jewish population in early Rome, through the expulsion, discrimination under Papal rule, periods of acceptance and more. Obviously the other big sites were also pretty awesome.

On our last day, we also visited the Capuchin museum and crypt. Fascinating. In addition to the museum with a history of the order the crypts are decorated with the bones of the friars (more info here). Really interesting.

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One of the crypts

The Churches were also all amazingly ornate. I appreciated the beauty but also questioned the excess having seen these extravagent houses of worship which were only matched by the palaces of the ultra rich and powerful like the The Palazzo Farnese.

Finally, lots of good food and much gelato - a necessity in 90+ degree heat.

So that's the Rome report. Next up Bologna and tomorrow we leave for Pesaro.

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